1. Some people are dead set on acquiring the biggest diamond they can afford. There is a thriving market for uncertified 1.0ct L/I3’s and these will be sold as “great value for money!”, but no. Being uncertified, it’s quite likely the cut won’t be good, which means the stone won’t have the full potential of fire and refraction, life, that a diamond cut according to ideal proportions would have.

That’s almost irrelevant though, because with that many inclusions visible with the naked eye, it’s already not possible for the stone to effectively reflect light. Sure, it’s big, light reflects off its highly polished surface, therefore I suppose it’s shiny. Personally, I don’t think that adds up to quality or value.

There is nothing wrong with selling a stone like this if it is what the customer requests, as long as the sale is motivated according to accurate specifications and not cliché sales talk.

Chances are good that the client making this request has limited knowledge about the product. I consider it my duty to educate them and present them with options. For instance, I would have the client view a 0.50ct J-K/SI1 next to the 1.0ct L/I3; two stones at the same price with a considerable difference in size, favouring the 1.0ct, and a tremendous difference in quality, favouring the smaller stone. This way the client can make an informed decision.

You might think the one stone is half the size of the other, there is only one or two colour grade differences and only four in clarity? How much better can the better stone possibly be? Let me explain.

1. Size: An ideally cut 1.0ct diamond will be 6.6mm in diameter and an ideally cut 0.50ct, 5.0mm. That’s a difference of 1.6mm and not 3.3mm. Therefore, the difference in diameter (size) is a lot less than the difference in weight. Carat refers to weight and not diameter/size.
2. I believe that the quality of a diamond should be identified by attributes that contributes to its effective refraction and reflection of light. It’s life and fire. Only two of the Four C’s (Colour, Cut, Clarity and Carat) are relevant to this. Colour and carat are purely based on preference and affordability. If you like a more yellow stone, good for you, you will end up paying less. The cut and clarity however are vital.

Light will simply bounce off the surface or go right through the stone if it is cut poorly. Excessive inclusions, particularly when visible with the naked eye, detracts from the stone’s appeal and makes it unattractive and can also interfere with the refraction of the light. Those two C’s can be identified as matters of quality.

1. A diamond’s colour may appear considerably different under different lighting conditions. That is why they are graded in a laboratory with ideal lighting conditions. Under the same lighting conditions the difference between a J and an L will be blatantly obvious. The difference between a K and an L, less, but still noticeable; the difference is there. Should the client have opted for the L colour from the offset because they found it attractive, great; I’ll still suggest a better clarity. Should they have been interested in the L purely because of budget, now I can offer them a better colour at the same price and the decision is theirs.
2. The difference in clarity between an SI1 and I3 are drastic. Even between an SI2 and I1 it plays an immense role in the appearance of the stone. The very definition of I1 to I3 is that the inclusions are noticeable with the naked eye. I have so much confidence in a stone cut according to ideal proportions ranging from VVS1 to VS2, that I could recommend it without even viewing it. SI1 Is also a very safe bet, but I would insist on inspecting it carefully myself before presenting it as an option. More so with SI2 and SI3, but one often comes across these that are indeed very good value for money. Some stones in the SI range might have inclusions visible to the naked eye upon close inspection, in certain lighting conditions and I will make this fact known to the customer; either motivating it because the inclusion/s will not be a constant eyesore or warning if it will be.

Very often stones in the SI range will have white, well-hidden inclusions which do not have a negative effect on the appearance of the diamond.

I find the ideal range I recommend to clients looking for a good stone to be I-K/VS2-SI1, not dismissing the possibility of finding an appealing SI2 or SI3. Forget about your granny’s “blue white, flawless” diamond; it probably wasn’t.

This brings me to the other side of the argument; you don’t need to break your budget or your back to get a top of the range diamond. To know the difference between an F/IF stone and a G-H/VS stone, you will need to view the stones with a very well-trained eye, under 10X magnification and possibly even in a laboratory. In fact, these differences may even only be noticed under a microscope before the grader can find it under 10X magnification. Only inclusions visible under 10X magnification are graded. You can confidently buy a commercial range stone that you will enjoy without any regret.

Naturally, every shopper has their own motivation for a purchase and unique preferences. When my Elegantly Refined design was honoured as one of the winners of the Six Rings design competition at Jewellex 2019, my firm belief was quoted, “I believe that jewellery should be made to bring the wearer joy and not to appeal to others.” Is the cost of something relevant to how it makes you feel, or is it what it is that makes it special to you; that makes you feel naked without it?